Dustin Hollick tucking into a nice little wave somewhere in Byron Bay, as seen in the latest issue of White Horses mag.
A shot I took of Soli Bailey in the latest issue of Surfing World. Thanks boys.
Julian Rocks. The Arakwal People of Byron Bay call this group of small islets out in the Bay “Nguthungulli” meaning; Father of the World.
15 second Instagram edit of a dawn patrol mish with Luke Stickley in Byron Bay, Australia.
Music: Flume – Live at London
Some left over footage and other random bits and pieces from a few days of filming with Luke Stickley around Byron Bay. We were filming for another project but I wanted to put something together that captures the feeling of being in the water at the crack of dawn.
Music: Tom Day – Love Is Rare
Generally I don’t shoot much from land or in the middle of the day… especially not both at the same time, yuck! But last week when I got a text from Wispy, who was just about to take his new Bob McTavish 80’s thruster for a spin, I felt so in tune with the elements that I didn’t worry about where I was shooting from or what time it was.
I’d been on a roll for days. You know, the feeling when you’re always in the right place at the right time, always meeting the right people, everything you touch turns to gold and unfolds magically right in front you… Yeah that! It’s what most people, including myself, don’t experience often enough. It comes from a place of no resistance, when you’re thoughts and feelings are perfectly in sync with who you really are.
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Recently I had the privilege to do a one on one Surf Survival Course with Joe Knight from One Ocean International. Joe is a legend, an all round waterman. He’s a professional freediver, offshore survival trainer, surfer, paramedic and the list goes on. But most importantly he is a good bloke, patient, good teacher and motivator.
As a water photographer and surfer I have spent quite some time in the ocean throughout the last decade. I considered myself a good swimmer and a semi-fit person. Most of the time I felt comfortable out in the elements, maybe a little bit to comfortable at times… until that one day, when the ocean showed me how quickly you can lose control. The result; a near drowning experience in Bali. The first wave of the set sucked the water off the reef, detonated on top of me and the rest is history.
From that day on I had never fully regained my confidence in big surf. Until I met Joe that is.
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Johnny Abegg preparing for some play time on this tasty looking wall of ocean sweetness.
These photographs are a recap of the last few days of the swell around Byron Bay. The surf’s been pumping, the water’s cleared up and autumn keeps busting out the colourful presentations of sunrise and sunset.
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Byron Boilers going off. Mikey Wright on one of the better ones, getting shacked off his head.
Teaming up with a surfer you have never shot before to create a bunch of new images for your portfolio is extremely exciting! Undertaking a mission like this at the start of spring has proofed to be rather challenging. While weather and water are getting more inviting, the waves are at an all-year low. Chasing big barrels at home; impossible. The magical light however, almost a constant.
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Stoked to have one of my photos featured in the latest issue of White Horses. They even sent me a copy, thanks guys! The photo is part of an article by Nick Lawrence on Australian lighthouses.
It’s the prettiest mag of ’em all, so be sure to check it out.
Paul McNeil from ArtPark and I did a fun photo shoot a couple of weeks back for GLIDE magazine, Japan. They are running an article on his board art in the latest issue. It’s in Japanese and google translate doesn’t work for print. But hey, check out the photos!
The month of September. Spring has fully kicked in. Long forgotten the last pounding winter swell, it’s back to northerlies and small fun sized waves. On the upside, the sand is coming back, the water is getting warmer and the days are getting longer. Change. Contrast. Balance. Seasons… whatever you want to call it. Without light, shadow couldn’t exist.
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Average surf and high expectations don’t match very well. When the waves are rather disappointing and you decide to head out anyway, it’s because being in the ocean when the sun comes up behind the horizon rarely disappoints. Today was one of those days… Just you and a handful of friendly faces from the neighbourhood. Beauty.
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Just a few weeks ago, shortly before an arriving swell, I got a call from Nick Colbey inviting me to join him on a 3 day adventure south of Sydney. Tickets were booked instantly and not even 24 hours later I found myself sitting on a plane, excited to explore a region I had never been before.
Air temperature around 3° centigrade, freezing cold water, gnarly reefs, rock ledges and long hikes made for an awesome experience. It also made me realise how mellow and easy Byron Bay is. Down there not so much. The rewards on the other hand… HUGE. Countless first class breaks all to yourself.
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Ok, it’s been a long time coming but now it’s finally happened. Patagonia is using one of my shots of Johnny Abegg in their latest ad in the “50 YEAR ANNIVERSARY EDITION” of SURFING WORLD. And, if that wasn’t cool enough already… they have placed it on the back cover! Stoked! Thanks Patagonia… thanks Johnny! Yeew
Jesse Weinberg was kind enough to feature my take on Byron Bay and one of its most iconic spots on Global Yodel. There are heaps more cool places to explore on the site. Go check it out.