Generally I don’t shoot much from land or in the middle of the day… especially not both at the same time, yuck! But last week when I got a text from Wispy, who was just about to take his new Bob McTavish 80’s thruster for a spin, I felt so in tune with the elements that I didn’t worry about where I was shooting from or what time it was.
I’d been on a roll for days. You know, the feeling when you’re always in the right place at the right time, always meeting the right people, everything you touch turns to gold and unfolds magically right in front you… Yeah that! It’s what most people, including myself, don’t experience often enough. It comes from a place of no resistance, when you’re thoughts and feelings are perfectly in sync with who you really are.
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Recently I had the privilege to do a one on one Surf Survival Course with Joe Knight from One Ocean International. Joe is a legend, an all round waterman. He’s a professional freediver, offshore survival trainer, surfer, paramedic and the list goes on. But most importantly he is a good bloke, patient, good teacher and motivator.
As a water photographer and surfer I have spent quite some time in the ocean throughout the last decade. I considered myself a good swimmer and a semi-fit person. Most of the time I felt comfortable out in the elements, maybe a little bit to comfortable at times… until that one day, when the ocean showed me how quickly you can lose control. The result; a near drowning experience in Bali. The first wave of the set sucked the water off the reef, detonated on top of me and the rest is history.
From that day on I had never fully regained my confidence in big surf. Until I met Joe that is.
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