Last week I went on a quick road trip down south with Surf Sister and the current aussie champ Brittani Nicholl. Despite the not so awesome waves everyone had a blast. We had everything from freezing cold temperatures, a steaming ocean, a pod of 30 dolphins (one of them nearly landed on top of me) and plenty of fun waves all to ourselves. Article and interview with Brittani here.
After recovering from a severe sinusitis I was dying to get back in the water. I “only” spent 4 days at the Tweed Hospital and two weeks in bed, but to me it felt like half a year. As I was still a bit shaky on my legs I didn’t want to push my luck too hard and decided to take my camera out for a quick swim at The Wreck. The surf was small but autumn delivered a beautiful golden sunset. One of the shots from that afternoon can be purchased as a framed print at Ho’okupu in town. See below… “Wreck Sunset Surfers”.
For the first time in ages Main Beach was pumping. Yew. There were plenty of barrels to be had. Johnny got a couple of nice ones and Jeff made photo of the day on Magicseaweed going over the falls while putting on a show.
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In the beginning of March my good friend and fellow water photographer Sarah Lee unexpectedly returned to Australia. Yay! When Sarah came to town for a quick visit last year the surf wasn’t any good, and all she knew about this magical place were my stories and tales of epic waves. The pressure was on.
I called up Johnny Abegg, my partner in crime and second half of the Adventure Team, to see if something could be arranged. As gentlemen we know how to show a young lady a good time and the elements aligned. Epic waves, not a single soul around, dolphins, a shark, an awesome sunrise and heaps of fun. A session forever to remembered.
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Tommy Leitch wrote a very personal and emotional piece on my good friend and second half of the ‘dynamic duo’ Johnny Abegg and I supplied a few photographs. Johnny’s story is worth telling and definitely worth a read. So if you can, get yourself a copy of the current issue of SLIDE Magazine.
Australia’s Surfing Life is running my shot of Garret Parkes in the current issue. The photo was taken on boxing day last year during that massive swell. Garret looking very casual in the barrel at Main Beach, Byron Bay.