The month of September. Spring has fully kicked in. Long forgotten the last pounding winter swell, it’s back to northerlies and small fun sized waves. On the upside, the sand is coming back, the water is getting warmer and the days are getting longer. Change. Contrast. Balance. Seasons… whatever you want to call it. Without light, shadow couldn’t exist.
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Average surf and high expectations don’t match very well. When the waves are rather disappointing and you decide to head out anyway, it’s because being in the ocean when the sun comes up behind the horizon rarely disappoints. Today was one of those days… Just you and a handful of friendly faces from the neighbourhood. Beauty.
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Just a few weeks ago, shortly before an arriving swell, I got a call from Nick Colbey inviting me to join him on a 3 day adventure south of Sydney. Tickets were booked instantly and not even 24 hours later I found myself sitting on a plane, excited to explore a region I had never been before.
Air temperature around 3° centigrade, freezing cold water, gnarly reefs, rock ledges and long hikes made for an awesome experience. It also made me realise how mellow and easy Byron Bay is. Down there not so much. The rewards on the other hand… HUGE. Countless first class breaks all to yourself.
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Ok, it’s been a long time coming but now it’s finally happened. Patagonia is using one of my shots of Johnny Abegg in their latest ad in the “50 YEAR ANNIVERSARY EDITION” of SURFING WORLD. And, if that wasn’t cool enough already… they have placed it on the back cover! Stoked! Thanks Patagonia… thanks Johnny! Yeew
Jesse Weinberg was kind enough to feature my take on Byron Bay and one of its most iconic spots on Global Yodel. There are heaps more cool places to explore on the site. Go check it out.